Existe la posibilidad de preparar en casa un pan sin gluten sabroso, con enjundia y la textura de un buen centeno integral de masa madre. Si lo va a tomar un celíaco, ten cuidado con la contaminación cruzada.
El gluten, que hasta hace poco era una humilde proteína, se ha convertido en los últimos años en uno de esos temas sobre los cuales todo el mundo tiene una opinión. Existe un debate serio en el cual, para tranquilidad de todos, no entraremos aquí. Las razones para eliminar el gluten de la dieta son muy variadas, y van desde la celiaquía hasta una intolerancia leve. Y luego está también la gente que lo deja por estar a la moda, pero esa es otra historia.
¿Qué podemos hacer si, por la razón que sea, tenemos que dejar de tomar gluten pero queremos seguir comiendo pan? Si has tenido que dar este paso -tú o alguien cercano-, probablemente habrás recorrido panaderías, tiendas naturales y supermercados especializados buscando algo parecido al pan y mínimamente comestible. ¿Los resultados? Pues varían: normalmente son piezas con mucha química sintética (entiéndase conservantes, estabilizantes, aglutinantes, etc.), que no suelen tener ni buen sabor ni agradable textura. Y, por lo general, son muy caros.
¿Se puede comprar pan sin gluten elaborado en una panadería? Tendría que ser un obrador exclusivo para elaborar panes sin gluten, de lo contrario no podría garantizar la ausencia de gluten al 100%. Sin embargo, hay algunos hornos que se atreven con estas elaboraciones, que tienen mucho mejor sabor que las industriales pero solo son aptas para intolerantes -y no para celíacos- por la posibilidad de contaminación cruzada.
No todo son malas noticias en el creciente mundo de la panadería sin gluten. Actualmente hay gente implicada en el tema que, con resultados totalmente asombrosos, está trabajando y descubriendo nuevas formas de panificar sin esta proteína sabrosa y elástica: podéis mirar los blogs de Teba, ‘la chica de las recetas’ o de Jordi ‘mamá fermenta’ para haceros una idea.
Para regocijo de los panaderos caseros, me complace informar que hacer un pan sin gluten en casa es bastante asequible. Os presentamos hoy una fórmula a prueba de errores, sencilla, que contiene únicamente ingredientes naturales y da como resultado un pan de larga conservación, con todas las ventajas de la masa madre y que está bastante bueno.
No es la receta más elaborada ni la más refinada: es un pan más bien rústico, pesado, que se asemeja a un centeno integral de masa madre, con ese tipo de humedad interior, pero es una manera muy decorosa -e infinitamente más sabrosa que las industriales y refinadas- de renunciar al gluten y regalarnos, o regalar, una pequeña muestra amor celíaco (o intolerante).
Notas: los diferentes grados de intolerancia al gluten son muy importantes a tener en cuenta. Si estáis haciendo este pan para un celíaco, es fundamental que compréis sólo harinas con el sello Gluten Free y que no haya en vuestra cocina ningún rastro de esta proteína. En caso de que lo hagáis habitualmente o conviváis con la enfermedad celíaca, si elimináis del todo el gluten de vuestra cocina os será mucho más fácil.
El pan que resulta de esta receta es húmedo, muy húmedo. Si lo abrís recién horneado parecerá crudo. No os preocupéis, no lo está. Simplemente hay que dejarlo reposar y enfriar del todo. Al día siguiente estará mejor.
También es un pan que tuesta muy bien, por lo que es posible congelarlo cortado y tostarlo al momento de consumir. Otra buena idea es hacer el doble de la receta y congelarlo para una o dos semanas.
Ingredientes
- 350 g de agua
- 200 g de masa madre de arroz
- 100 g de harina integral de arroz
- 100 g de harina de trigo sarraceno
- 160 g de almidón de maíz
- 9 g de Psyllium
- 8 g de sal
- 3 g de levadura fresca
- 60 g de mix de semillas
Total: 990 g
Preparación
Para la masa madre de arroz
En mi caso, utilicé una pequeña cucharada de masa madre de centeno como starter y la alimenté con 100 g de agua y 100 g de harina de arroz integral. Si refrescamos esta madre tres o cuatro veces más únicamente con harina de arroz y agua, pronto el centeno habrá desaparecido del todo. También existe la posibilidad, en caso de celiaquía, de iniciar una masa madre de arroz desde cero, lo cual tomará unas dos semanas. Para esta última opción recomiendo seguir los pasos del maestro Ibán Yarza, descritos aquí.
Una vez tengáis vuestra masa madre de arroz, guardadla en la nevera, dentro de un frasco con un orificio. La noche antes de hacer el pan, sacar del frío y alimentar con 100g de agua y otros 100g de harina de arroz. Dejar a temperatura ambiente.
Para la masa final
Mezclar en un bol el psyllium con 150 g de agua y dejar reposar durante 15 minutos.
Pesar todos los ingredientes secos, salvo el mix de semillas, y añadirlos a la mezcla de agua y psyllium. Añadir 200 g de la masa madre de arroz y el resto del agua poco a poco: la consistencia final es la de una masa muy líquida pero con cierto cuerpo. Se puede mezclar con la ayuda de un robot de cocina o a mano, en todo caso hay que asegurarse de que no quedan grumos ni partes de harina sin hidratar.
Una vez que los ingredientes se han integrado, añadir la mezcla de semillas que más os guste, mezclar y volcar en un molde aceitado.
Dejar fermentar hasta que la masa roce el borde del molde.
Hornear con vapor a 220ºC durante 10 minutos y luego bajar la temperatura a 190ºC hasta que el centro del pan marque 95ºC, en total unos 50 minutos. El tiempo concreto dependerá de vuestro horno, del grado de fermentación del pan y de la temperatura exacta que éste tuviera al entrar al horno.
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